Sunday, September 29, 2013

Temples


Babysitting


While in Siem Reap we joined a tour company called Beyond tours for a trip out to some of the more remote temples of th angkor wat complex. Our driver was Saree and our guide was Ratana, a delightful man with a great sense of humour.
 We travelled about 60 Kim's to near Hari Hali, the old city. He told us that the temples were often built near lakes as the Hindu Gods like water, and on hills as the Hindu gods like to be close to the heavens.
We learned that before 800 was there Angkor period, 800 to 1500 was the Angkor period, and after 1500 was the post Angkor period.
The lake that these temples are near is the amazing Tonle Sap lake. Prior to 1970 the fisherman would catch one ton of fish in every square kilometer. The lake covers 2000 kilometers in May but spreads to12000 in September after the monsoons. The rains have been late this year and the locals complain that there is now too much water. We certainly saw a lot of flooding later in the week as we travelled to Battambong.
The first temple we visited was Pre Rup at Bantreay Samre





There were dark caverns.



And well preserved courtyards



And tumbled down areas






Where nature has taken hold

Extensive carvings

Quite exquisite


Amazing and intricate

And some very big bugs.

It was an amazing day. The people on our little tour, seven of us were lovely. A Malasian couple, Danny and Johhny, a discrete couple from Gatewick, Jason from England via New Zealand and Jim and I.  We stooped on the way at a road side stall for sticky coconut rice and red bean cooked in bamboo climbed which was ...interesting! 







It was a memorable day, we saw and learnt so much and the friendliness of the Khymer people was reinforced. On our way home we stopped at the Mine museum. It is hard to comprehend the extent of the mines laid in this country and the damage that they have done. That and the fact that under the Khymer Rouge between 1975 -1979  1.7 million people died, a quarter of the population. Estimates suggest that there are still between 4 and 6 million unexplored ordinance. Such a sobering statistic in such a gentle land.





























Friday, September 27, 2013

Artisans Angkor

Second day in Seam Reap and discussions over a leisurely breakfast stimulated us to find a friendly tuk tuk and head out of Siem Reap to the Artisans Angkor silk farm. As we didn't go at either of the two tour times we were met by a gentle guide who took us through the educational aspect of the silk farm. After travelling through acres of various mulberry trees we went into the nursery where there were  baskets of newly hatched silk worms
Then we saw the silk work cocoons being boiled to remove the spider web fine silk threads

We saw the dying process and learnt how they had given up traditional dyes with alum mordants for the new improved Bayer dyes!!!!

Saw the silk being wound onto spools

And then the weaving process

and finally into the museum to see the silk made into ancient and modern garments

and then to the amazing shop were we bought some lovely gifts. An educative and memorable day
Return to Cambodia

We arrived at the Siem Reap airport in the early afternoon and were greeted by our Tuk Tuk driver Mice.  The drive in from the airport filled me with joy. The beauty of the countryside, the shabby shanties, the dust and heat and shiny brown naked children jumping in the brown muddy puddles beside the endless lime green rice fields, the lotus lakes, the dodgy dodgy wiring, the smell of roadside fires, the smiles of the people. It made me feel I had returned to somewhere loved.
We booked into our hotel. It has about 8 garden units around a swimming pool and everywhere lotus, palms, bamboo and banana palms. It is lush and green, beautiful pots everywhere filled with water, fish and floating lotus.

It is hot and humid and I could almost  hear the mozzies clapping their legs together as they saw me coming, what they didn't know was that I came with Bushman's tropical strength DEET which I wear as my new perfume!
After settling in we walked up the back streets toward the town, over the bridge across the fast flowing smooth brown Siem Reap river and into the chaos that is Siem Reap town.
Everywhere there are motor bikes purring along, Tuk Tuks touting for business, a string of flash imported cars,  which are new to the scene since our last visit amble along and weaving between this are a plethora of people of all ages on push bikes, people pushing wheel chairs and people missing limbs and using crutches sharing a road as there are no pavements as we know them. 
We sat outside for a beer and spring rolls and watched the world go by. Small brown big eyed children, some with missing arms come sullenly to our 
table to beg before they are shooed away by proprietors. It is a hard world for these young people and your heart bleeds for them. You have to confront your own humanity as you look away and vow to make a large donation to a Cambodian children's charity when you get home, knowing that any money you give these begging children is likely to be commandeered for alcohol or drugs by their desperate parents. We make a mental note to take some dried fruit to give to these kids next time we see them.
We wander down the road and find a restaurant for dinner, sitting at the side and enjoying the the mix of accents as the tourists of many nations congregate at this amazing place full of history and pain.
Replete after dinner we find a Tuk Tuk driver to take us home. We give him the name of our hotel and he asks if we know the way, Fortified by wine and beer we feel it can't be all that difficult to find our hotel. Siem Reap is not a big place and we know we have to cross the river.
We drive for a few minutes and a police man steps out in front of our Tuk Tuk. There is a short conversation and the policeman stands with his arms folded, his expression and the gun in his holster make him look very fierce. A few minutes later our Tuk Tuk driver opens his wallet and passes some bank notes to the grumpy cop. He then returns to the Tuk Tuk and apologises to us. I ask him if he got a receipt for the money he paid and he laughs and says "No, madame, this is Cambodia".  It was a quick reminder of the corruption that exists that exists within the ranks of those that hold the power. 
Suddenly we are quite sober and Jim is pouring cold water on my desire to go back and photograph the policeman.
We proceed in the direction of what we think is our hotel, the Petit Villa Boutique and Spa, Wat Damnak, Salakomrouk Commune, Siem Reap. Unfortunately with no side works, dirt roads and  no electric street lighting, everything looks so different. Our Tuk Tuk driver has no idea and neither do we. Rattling down dark shrub shrouded alley ways in a strange  country with no idea of the direction you're travelling is quite an exhilarating experience. Eventually boredom set in for the tuk driver and he stopped to ask several people who were eating at road side stall, all seemed to point in different directions, so our driver acted on the consensus and eventually delivered us back to our hotel, 

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Well its happened again!

Now, as those of you that know me realize I'm one that is all for a quiet life! I'm content to sit in the sun and ruminate on how good life is, but every now and then I think that perhaps I am missing something. And I am! I'm missing my son Tim and his wife Jen and I'm missing my youngest daughter Clare.

So Jim and I did a quick calculation and thought that if we were sensible (!) we could eek out the money for another visit to Singapore and from there it is a quick jump to Cambodia and Clare. So we're off! We've had our shots, bought our tickets and are now counting down to next Thursday when we fly out. For those of you that are interested you will be able to follow out travel adventures here.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Sweet, sweet Singapore


After the tumultuous events of Madrid and Ireland it was great to arrive in Singapore again. We cleared customs in no time and nimbly grabbed a cab to Lakeview estate. Jen was waiting for us and interested in all our news. After no sleep for about 20 hours I feel we probably made little sense but a visit to the long house for copi and a lazy day, visiting the supermarket with Tim while Jim had a lie down and then a wonderful home cooked dinner and we were almost right again. Sunday we had a really relaxing barbeque picnic by the water with Lee and Chris, two Tim and Jen’s friends. We went for a swim in the salty Singaporean sea.
Monday we stooged around and had brunch at our favourite Indian restaurant, packed and got ready for the overnight trip home to Sydney and Keda and Sanjay’s home for a few days before returning to Crowdy Head. Time to say good bye to Tim and Jen.

 

dreamy, damp Dublin


Dublin August 2012

After waiting in the passport check for an hour we were so excited to get into the airport to see Clare and our brother in law Connor waiting for us. He is a wise and gentle man and it was great to be made to feel so ‘at home’.  We went straight to Connor’s house to catch up with the family and say hello to Jim’s other sister Miriam who was visiting from America Amazing hospitality as Jim’s sister effortlessly effects miracles in her tiny kitchen feeding recurrent waves of blow ins all welcomed with her calm god humour.  A cup of tea turned into lunch and we finally got up from lunch at 7pm so that Connor could take us to our hotel to check in.
 

 

It was the first time I had visited Dublin in summer. Most days we saw patches of sunlight when the clouds cleared but at any time Dublin is a great city. It is full of people from all countries, walking through Dublin is like being at the league of nations.

Meeting with Jim’s eldest brother in a genteel establishment, pitching emotions as we hear the news that can’t be told in letters and even talking makes little sense. Days and nights swirl into meeting with loved ones.

Breakfast at the Castle hotel, a cacophony of European languages surrounding belly’s full of a traditional Irish breakfast. People cheering themselves on despite the pervading grey. Summer temperature hovering around the teens interspersed with light then heavy rain. Quite a change after the 40’s in Spain.

Time out of mind at Clara Cottage in the Wicklow Mountains, shared meals and love surrounded by the beauty of the amazing country.
 

Too soon it is time to go with promises of a quick return.
 
 

Santa Maria de El Paular-Rascarfria


 Rascafria

Course 353 staring 29th July till August 3rd 2012.

Rascafría is a beautiful, peaceful town in the northwestern area of the Madrid region. It is set in the amazing Lozoya valley. The area has been settled for a long time.

In the town there is a church of San Andres the Apostle which was built in the 15th century. It’s central nave has Gothic vaults and coffered ceilings. In the bell tower we saw three stork’s nests. Awesome builders

The monastery at Rascafria El Paular was founded in the 14th century. It is two kilometres from town. The church is magnificent. The stone façade was worked from stone by Gil de Hontanon.The area we were staying in is run by the Sheraton Hotel and it was originally  part of the monastery. It has fabulous gardens, a great swimming pool and many courtyards and passages and libraries. It was a little like something out of Harry Potter.

The monastery was built in the 14th Century and is amazing. There is a huge corridor that runs around the church and the 56 huge paintings that Vicente Carducho painted between 1626 and 1632 of the life of St Bruno, Founder of the Benedictine monastery are hung here. They have been collected and restored by the Prad museum and returned to the monastery and were wonderful to see. We went for a tour of the monastery guided by a sprightly monk who had been at the monastery for 53 years and was a friend of the Pope. I think he was amazed by my purple hair as he kept taking me by the arm and propelling me around the cloisters and the refectory. He spoke no English but when he asked one of our Spanish friends where I was from and he answered Australia, he said that he had had a friend who went to Australia to bring God to the people but they weren’t very attentive. Despite the weird interaction it was a great visit and an amazing monastery.
 

Our group consisted of 7 Spaniards and 13 English with our facilitator Merissa, an Australian woman who had lived in Spain for 20 years and Pete, the Master of Ceremonies from the UK also living in Spain. We had English, USA, Canadians, Croatians, Singaporeans and us and of course 7 awesome Spaniards. Like the previous group they amazed and inspired us. The program was roughly similar to the previous program, with lots of theatre sports, walks and laughter. The countryside was stunning and we took every opportunity to go for walks or sit in the peaceful gardens of the monastery surrounded by ancient trees who were wise with the observations of the centuries.
 
 
 

Our Spanish hosts are

Miquel A

Miquel M

Isobel

Laura

Alvaro Loring

Francisco

Estabelth

They are such fun and fabulous people and told us about the Via de la Platz (the silk road) and the amazing fire festival in Valencia in 15th -19th March. I would love to go there.

The Anglos were Sally (IK) Hanbin Zen (Singapore via Paris) Nick and Debbie (UK) John (USA) Jenna and Sandy (Canada) Jan (Isle of Wight) Clare and Veronica (Croatia)

On Thursday evening we walked into the town of Rascarfia. There is an amazing natural chocolate shop there where we sampled a number of chocolates (delicious) and also enjoyed beer and tapas by the little river that runs through the town.

Each night brings its own entertainment, We have had a celebration and salutation to the Gods with the creation of some liquor steeped in herbs and orange skins and set alight that is performed in the Basque country where they speak a form of Spanish that no one else understands! An Interesting night held in the courtyard cloisters of the old monastery.
 
 
 

Another fantastic week.